My last day on Saba, MTM and I decided to climb Mt Scenery, the dormant volcano that formed the island.
At just under 3,000 feet, it is the highest peak in the Netherlands. The volcano last erupted in 1640, spewing both ash and lava. Some volcanologists believe it to be overdue for an eruption.
During its history, the volcano has blown with enough force to cause part of the cone to collapse. The Bottom, Saba’s capital, lies in a relatively flat part of the caldera about 1,000 feet above sea level.
Mt Scenery is covered in rain forest. A steep, slippery trail leads to the summit.
We started at the trail entrance across from the Windwardside hiking center. Wet, uneven steps ascend into lush jungle. Good thing I brought two hiking poles! I slipped and almost fell within five minutes.
The trail winds past two homes built on Windwardside’s higher elevations. Once we scooted through the last house’s garden, we entered the ohmygod why did we do this phase of the climb. (Or at least, this was me.)
I’ve learned one lesson from hiking around the world. In America, when a trail is marked Difficult or Strenuous, I usually deem it Moderate. Maybe we Americans mark our trails for median American fitness, which is likely not accustomed to mountain climbs.
In every other country where I’ve hiked, Difficult means You will likely get lost and may possibly fail to escape alive. Strenuous means prepare to die.
On Mt Scenery, I was prepared to die. I begged MTM to leave me and summon a helicopter rescue multiple times. Parts of the trail require hand pulls and ropes to climb. Moss-covered, soaked steps slope in all directions. Few are level. Rain-slick expanses of path give one no break from the possibility of falling. And my god, the mud.
When we reached the summit, here was our view:
MTM plied me with liquid courage. We enjoyed the cocoon of fog at the summit. Shared our lunch with a rat. Met a breezy group of Dutch soldiers out for an easy walk on our way down. Hiking poles are essential for the descent. Trust me. It’s treacherous. And also stunning.
After much cursing (me) and crying (also me), we made it back to our hotel.
If you’re new to this Saba adventure, go to THIS POST and read forward for context. Maybe you’ll discover a hidden part of the world to enjoy someday.
8 Comments
Descents are always harder. Your brain has more oxygen to conjure nightmares.
And I don’t see so well, making the descent a nightmare.
The view at the summit! ???. As I laugh, my knee twinges. It has been giving me grief since a slip in the Publix parking lot this morning. Indeed, I would never make this trail. Beautiful foliage and flowers. Thank you for sharing. ❤️
The summit is in cloud much of the time. And I’m sorry to hear about your knee. Are you okay?
I’d like to say that looks like fun, but I can’t. It must be a wonderful memory, however. Congratulations on your achievement.
The joy came from accomplishment, Kathy. ?
I admire your courage. There is no way I would have made it very far up that hill much less there and back. I would have fallen down and rolled to my certain death. Good for you! Thanks for sharing the stunning photos.
I’m surprised we made it. The photos make you feel like you were there.
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